Items for sale:  www.treasures-in-time.com

Glossary of Jewelry Terms

Algrette – Jewels mounted in a shape resembling feathers or a feather motif.

A-Jour setting – An open work setting in which the bottom portion of the stone can be seen. Also a setting in which the metal has open work.

Albert chain – A watch chain for a man or a woman with a bar at one end and a swivel to hold a watch at the other.

Alloy – A combination formed by the fusion of two or more metals. Also a combination of base metal with a fine metal.

Alma chain – A chain with broad ribbed links.

Amber – A fossilized vegetable resin that is hard and brittle. Translucent colors range from yellow gold to a brownish yellow.

Aurora borealis – Name derived from the colorful aurora seen in the high northern latitudes. Glass rhinestones that have been treated with metals to give it an iridescent quality. First introduced in the 1950s by Swarovski and used extensively by Christian Dior in his costume jewelry designs.

Baguette – A stone cut in the shape of a narrow rectangle.

Bakelite – A phenol formaldehyde resin invented by Leo Hendrick Baekeland in 1901. Often a term inadvertently used to describe Catalin, Celluloid, and Galalith as well as other earlier plastics. Bakelite was available in a wide variety of colors and was used extensively in the production of costume jewelry as well as other accessories and household products. Bakelite was often carved and highly polished; whereas Catalin was a molded plastic and Celluloid an embossed plastic.

Banded agate – Agate that has bands of lighter and darker colors. It can be onyx (black/white), cornelian (orangish red/white) or sardonyx (brown/white).

Baroque pearl – An irregularly shaped pearl (simulated or genuine) often has a "lumpy" appearance.

Base metal – A metal of low value (also called pot metal). A term often used interchangeably with brass, p"beck and white metal. Types of base metals: Brass: an alloy of copper, zinc and sometimes tin.

Pinchbeck - an alloy of copper, tin and zinc in an imitation of gold. Named after its inventor Christopher Pinchbeck (1670-1732).

White metal: an alloy of pewter, lead, antimony and copper – silver-tone in color. White metal is a term often used interchangeably with silver-tone metal and tin plate.

Basse-Taille – An enameling technique in which a translucent enamelling is applied to an engraved metal surface.

Baton – A stone cut in the shape of a long narrow rectangle.

Beauty pins – Pins popular from the mid 1800s until after the turn of the century. Usually less than 2" long with rounded ends.

Belcher mounting – A claw type ring mounting on which there were many variations. Popular from the 1870s thru the 1920s.

Benoition chain – A chain worn suspended from the top of the head that encircled the head and dropped down onto the bosom.

Bezel – A metal rim which holds the stone in a ring, a cameo in its mounting or a crystal on a watch.

Bib – A necklace of three or more concentric strands of beads or simulated pearls. Also a rigid, fringed or decorative necklace that covers the area at the neck from no shorter than 14" to no longer than approximately 22".

Black amber – A misnomer for jet.

Bloomed gold – A textured finish on gold that is created by immersing in acid to give it a matte pitted effect.

Bog Oak – Wood preserved in the bogs of Ireland and used to make jewelry during the Victorian era.

Bohemian garnet – A dark red pyrope garnet.

Bracelet – A decorative band worn around the wrist or upper arm.

Types of bracelets:

Bangle (gypsy bangle): A rigid bracelet without a clasp that slips over the hand

Charm: A link or chain bracelet with decorative ornaments (charms) suspended from it.

Cuff: A rigid bracelet in the shape of a circle or oval with a clasp (usually a hinged clasp).

Flexible or expandable: A flexible bracelet comprised of moveable metal links with metal joints attaching each link to the other. Also beads, pearls or rhinestones strung on elastic cording. These bracelets do not have clasps – they expand to slip over the hand and then contract to fit snugly at the wrist. Flexible bracelets were popular during the 1950s. Also called Expansion bracelets.

Gauntlet: A rigid bracelet in the shape of a partial oval. The wrist fits through the opening at the underside of the wrist.

Line bracelet – A flexible bracelet composed of stones of one size or graduating in size, set in a single line.

Slave: A bracelet with a matching ring (or rings) connected by a chain.

Spiral: An open-ended bracelet with rhinestones pearls or beads strung on flexible, expandable wire that wraps around the wrist or upper arm. Sometimes the open ends of the spiral bracelet have decorations or tassels.

(Not to be confused with flexible, expansion or expandable bracelets.)

Tab: A bangle, cuff or gauntlet with a suspended charm, drop, tassel or decoration.

Bridge jewelry – A term given to jewelry that bridges the gap between fine jewelry and costume jewelry. Sterling silver jewelry and jewelry set with semi-precious stones often fall into this category.

Brilliant – Often refers to the tiny round rhinestones used for pave.

Brilliant cut – A cut that returns the greatest amount of white light to the eye. It usually has 57 or 58 facets. Usually used for diamonds or other transparent stone.

Briolettes – A teardrop shaped cut covered with facets.

Brooch – Derived from the French term broche. Often refers to pins of a large scale or pins made prior to the 1950’s.

Brooch watch – A watch with a brooch affixed so it is worn as one would wear a brooch.

Bulla – A round ornamental motif found in ancient jewelry.

Cabachon – An unfaceted stone, usually dome-shaped and round or oval-cut.

Cairngorm – Yellow brown to smoky yellow quarts named after the mountain range in which it is found in Scotland.

Calibre cut – Small stones cut in the shape of squares, rectangles or oblongs used to embellish jewelry.

Cameo – A layered stone in which a design is engraved on the top layer and the remainder is carved away to reveal the next layer, leaving the design in relief. Also done in shell, coral and lava.

Cameo Habille – A type of cameo in which the carved head is adorned with a necklace, earrings or head ornament set with small stones.

Cannetille – A type of metal decoration named after the type of embroidery made with fine twisted gold or silver thread. It is done using thin wires to make a filigree pattern. Used frequently in England in 1840.

Carat – A unit of weight for gemstones. Since 1913 one metric carat is one fifth of a gram or 200 milligrams.

Carbuncle – Today used to refer to a garnet cut in cabochon. In the middle ages it referred to any cabochon cut red stone.

Carnelian –Also called cornelian. A waxy, translucent red to orange-red quartz in the chalcedony family. Often red to orange-red glass cabochons are mistakenly called carnelian.

Cartouche – An ornamental tablet used in decoration or to be engraved, usually symmetrical.

Casting – In costume jewelry this term is usually referred to as the lost wax casting method. The metal alloy is melted and poured into a pre-shaped mold then cooled. The hardened metal is then used in a three-dimensional shape. Not as cost-efficient as stamping. A method mainly used prior to the 1950s.

Celluloid – An early plastic introduced in 1869 by J.W.Hyatt. A highly flammable plastic produced from a mixture of guncotton, camphor and other substances. Could only be heated by hot water or hot air to be folded, rolled or embossed. Could not be melted for molding purposes due to material decomposition. Was used in costume jewelry and hair accessories for a very short period of time.

Chalcedony – Also spelled chalcedony. A porous stone of the quartz family. Sometimes this stone has dye added to it to enhance its natural color. Agate, onyx, carnelian, chrysophase and jasper are all varieties of chalcedony.

Champlive – An enameling technique in which enamel is put into areas engraved or carved into the metal.

Channel setting – A groove or channel in the jewelry with the upper flange bent over the keep the stones from falling out. Also refers to a metal track with baguette stones set end-to-end with the upper flange folded over to support the stones.

Charms – In olden times referred to an amulet worn to ward off evil or to bring good luck or fertility. Later the term was used to refer to a small decorative ornament suspended on a chain, bracelet, necklace, earring, etc. Especially popular in the 1950’s.

Chasing – The technique of embellishing metal by hand using hammers and punches to make indentations – thus raising the design.

Chatelaine – The mistress of a household often wore a chain hanging from a belt to hold small household articles such as keys, a watch, a coin purse and personal grooming items. Chatelaine later became a term used to describe a pair of pins connected by a chain (or several chains). Sometimes mistakenly called sweater guards.

Chaton – The central or main ornament of a ring.

Choker – A necklace or ribbon with ornamentation worn high around the throat. 14" – 16" in length. Often a term mistakenly used to describe a dog collar.

Chromium – A very hard grayish white metallic element that is resistant to corrosion. Often used for plating in costume jewelry and often mistaken for rhodium plating. Also called chrome.

Cipher – A monogram of letters intertwined.

Citrine – Also called citrin. A light yellow to golden yellow variety of quartz.

Clasp – A releasable fastener for holding parts of jewelry together. Often prettily decorated as well as functional.

Common types of clasps:

Fish hook: One end of the necklace or bracelet has a part of the clasp in the shape of a fishhook. The other end of the necklace or bracelet has a box that the hook slides in, catches and locks.

Jump-ring, spring-ring or standard clasp: One end of the necklace or bracelet has a jump ring. He other end of the necklace or bracelet has a ring with a slide that opens and closed to catch the jump ring. The most commonly used clasp style.

Lobster-claw: One end of the necklace or bracelet has a jump ring. The other end of the necklace or bracelet has a clasp that resembles a claw. When pushed, the claw opens and closes to catch the jump ring.

Mystery clasp: a screw clasp that is disguised as another bead or part of the necklace or bracelet.

Push-slot clasp: One end of the necklace or bracelet has a piece that fits into a box at the other end of the necklace or bracelet. When the piece is pushed into the box it snaps closed. Often prettily decorated.

Screw clasp: One end of the necklace or bracelet has screw threads and twists to screw into the other end.

Claw setting – A setting with longer prongs used for cabochon stones.

Clip – A spring clasp at the back of a pin or earrings. A clip can also refer to the spring clasp that has metal teeth or flanges or two long prongs. Dress clips in singles and pairs were popular during the 1930s through the 1940s.

Cloisonné - Metal wire or metal strips used to make a design, or cloison, and filled with colored enamel.

Cluster setting – Small rhinestones set clustered around a larger, central rhinestone.

Collet setting – A ring setting in which a circular band of metal holds the stone.

Coral – The skeletal remains of various small marine invertebrates. These remains range in color from a pinkish red to an orange-red.

Coronet setting – A round claw setting in crown like design.

Cravat pin – The same as a tie pin.

Creole earrings – A hoop style in which the metal is thicker and wider at the bottom than at the top.

Croix a la Jeanette – A piece in the form of a heart from which a cross is suspended. A form of French peasant jewelry. Circa 1835.

Cross-over – A style of ring, bracelet or brooch in which the stone set decorative portions overlap and lie alongside each other.

Crown setting – An open setting resembling a crown.

Cultured pearl – Pearls cultivated in a controlled environment. Created in this fashion in order to ensure uniform size, dimension and color.

Curb chain – A chain in which the oval flattened links are twisted so that they lie flat.

Cushion cut – A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners. Also called "antique cut".

Cut steel jewelry – Jewelry made of steel studs that are faceted. Popular from the 1760s until the late 19^th century.

Cymric – A trade name used by Liberty & Co. for articles sold by them which were designed and manufactured by English firms. The name was adopted in 1899.

Damascene – The art of incrusting metals with other metals.

Demi-Hunter – A watch with a lid over the face in which there is a circular hole in the middle to expose the hands of the watch.

Demi-parure – A matching set of jewelry consisting of only a few pieces such as a necklace with matching earrings or a bracelet with matching brooch.

Designer – A person who designs jewelry. Occasionally they were also makers of jewelry.

Die stamping – A method most often used for mass-producing costume jewelry. This metal is mechanically shaped between a die and a counterdie. A cheaper and faster method of producing jewelry, replacing the lost wax casting method. Also called stamping.

Dog collar – A broad necklace usually consisting of several strands of rhinestones, pearls or beads worn tightly around the neck. A term often mistakenly used interchangeably with "choker".

Doublet – An assembled stone consisting of two materials, usually garnet and glass.

Drop – A small decorative object or ornament suspended from a brooch, necklace, earring, etc. Usually used to refer to a teardrop shaped ornament. Also called dangle.

Duette - A pin or brooch that can be taken apart to be worn as two separate clips or put back together and worn as one whole pin/brooch.

Edwardian jewelry – Jewelry made during the reign of Edward VII, 1901-1910, which does not fall into the "Art Nouveau" or "Arts and Crafts Movement" category.

Electroplate – Usually used to describe a method of fusing a thin sheet of finer metal to a lesser base metal by means of electrolysis. Often electroplating is used to fuse several layers of different metals.

Electrum – A pale yellow alloy made by mixing 20% gold and 80% silver.

Enamel – A process where opaque glass is fused to metal, porcelain, or other surfaces. A process which was popular in the 1940s. This old technique is costly and time-consuming. Today the term enameling is used to describe a process where a paint or lacquer is painted on the metal’s surface and hardens after drying to resemble the old enameling techniques.

Engine- turning – Decoration with engraved lines produced on a special lathe.

Engraving – To etch a pattern or figure into a metal surface using a sharp graving tool (a burin).

Eternity ring – A ring with stones set all the way around. Symbolizing the "never ending" circle of eternity.

Faux – False, not genuine, simulated, counterfeit, or copied.

Fede ring – An engagement ring that features two hands "clasped in troth".

Ferronniere – A chain that encircles the forehead as portrayed in Leonardo da Vince’s "La Bel Torronnier". A 16^th century adornment, it was revived during the Victorian era.

Findings – Catches, clasps, hooks, jump rings, springs, clips, pins, bezels, rivets, screws, wires, bolts, caps, loops, rings, and other functional parts of jewelry. Also called components.

Filigree - Lacy, intricate, and delicate ornamental work created by intertwisting gold, silver brass, or other fine wire.

Fob – A decorative ornament suspended by a chain usually worn with a watch.

Foil – A thin leaf of bright metal set behind a glass or crystal stone to add brilliance or color.

French jet – Cut black glass used to imitate genuine jet. The supply of genuine jet was exhausted during the Victorian era and had to be simulated by this glass. First used in Victorian mourning jewelry and later in fashion jewelry. (Popular in the 1950s and 60s.)

Freshwater pearl – A pearl produced by a mollusk in a non-brackish water environment. These pearls are usually elongated and lumpy or irregular in appearance and are not much larger than a grain of rice. Not considered a very desirable pearl and is thus usually priced inexpensively.

Fur clip – A large, decorative brooch that has a metal spring clasp with metal teeth or flanges meant to hold a fur stole securely around the wearer’s neck or shoulders. Larger in scale that the dress clip because it had to hold the thick fur together. Popular during the 1930s and 1940s.

Guilloche – Engraved decoration of geometric design achieved by engine turning. Usually used as a base for translucent enamel.

Girandole – Brooch or earring style in which 3 pendant stones hang from a large central stone.

Gold filled – Base or lesser metal sandwiched between two layers of gold. Usually hallmarked 18K g.f., 24K g.f., etc.

Graduated strand – A strand of beads or simulated pearls of graduating sizes that starts smaller in the back and get larger toward the center of the necklace.

Gunmetal – An alloy of 90% copper and 10% tin that was very popular in the 1890s.

Gutta-Percha – A hard rubber material made from the sap of a Malayan tree. Discovered in the 1840s, it was used for making jewelry, statuary and even furniture.

Gypsy setting – A type of setting in which the stone is set down flush in the mounting.

Hairwork jewelry – Jewelry made using hair worked on a table or jewelry that incorporates hair and was worked on a palette.

Hallmark – A mark or stamp on the back or inside of jewelry to guarantee purity. This term is often mistakenly interchanged with "signature" or "mark" which is used to identify the manufacturer, designer or patent information.

Hammering – A technique of decorating jewelry using a hammer on the metal’s surface.

Holbeinesque – A style of jewelry popular in England in the 1870s. Its inspiration was from the design of Hans Holbein the Younger.

Hunting case – A watch that has a lid covering the face. A case spring is activated by pushing on the crown causing the lid to pop open.

Incise – A line cut or engraved in a material.

Intaglio – A design that is cut or carved into a gemstone, piece of glass, or plastic. Most often the design is of a woman (like in a cameo). Intaglio is the opposite of a cameo that is carved in relief.

Intarsia – The use of stones to make a picture by cutting them out and inlaying them flushed into a background stone.

Ivory – Tusks and/or teeth of the elephant, walrus, wild boar, and other select animals. Often found in the jewelry of the Art Deco period. Some early plastics were created as a cheap alternative to ivory, which was quite costly. Often bone jewelry is mistakenly identified as ivory. Today, ivory is illegal to trade and harvest.

Jabot pin – A type of stick pin worn on the front of ladies blouses.

Japanned – A process that colors metal to a dull black. First used for mourning jewelry and often set with genuine or French jet.

Jet – Coal fossil lignite of a glossy black color. Jet was used in Victorian jewelry – especially in mourning jewelry. Made acceptable by Queen Victoria who wore it during mourning. Usually was cut en cabochon. Often the term "jet" is mistakenly used when describing black glass used in jewelry.

Karat – Pure gold is 24 karats. The karat of gold alloy is determined by the percentage of pure gold. For instance 18K gold is 750 parts pure gold and 250 parts other metal or 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts other metal.

Lapis lazuli – A stone of the feldspar species that is a deep purple-blue. Sometimes has flecks of iron pyrite which give it a glittering quality.

Lariat – A long necklace with open ends (without a clasp) that is knotted, looped or held together by a ring. Popular in the 1920s and 1950s.

Lava jewelry – jewelry made of the lava from Mt. Vesuvius. Usually carved into cameos or intaglios and sold as souvenirs of the "grand tour".

Lavalliere – A thin chain with a single suspended drop or stone. A popular style during the Edwardian and Deco eras. Also spelled lavaliere.

Luckenbooth brooches – So called because they were sold in street stalls (Luckenbooths) near St. Giles Kirk in Edinburg. The motif usually consisted of one or two hears occasionally surrounded by a crown. When the motif included the initial "M" the brooch was referred to as a Queen Mary Brooch.

Macle – A flat-bottomed diamond crystal.

Man-made gold – A yellow metal alloy of zinc, tin and copper. Also called imitation gold.

Marcasite – White iron pyrite. Often mistaken for polished steel which can be cut in the same manner. Usually set in silver-tone or sterling jewelry.

Marked – When the manufacturers or designer’s identifying mark or signature is etched, carved or stamped into the jewelry (usually located on the back of the jewelry). Sometimes this identifying mark or signature is accompanied by a date of manufacture, however this practice is rare. However, Hollycraft is known for dating a large portion of their jewelry. Mark is a term not to be confused with hallmark.

Marquise – A boat shaped cut used for diamonds and other gemstones. Also called a "navette" shape.

Memento Mori – "Remember you must die". Grim motifs such as coffins, skeletons, etc. Worn as a reminder of ones mortality.

Millegrain – A setting in which the metal holding the stone is composed of tiny grains or beads.

Mizpah ring – A popular ring of the 19^th century consisting of a band with the word Mizpah engraved across the top. "May the Lord watch between me and thee while we are absent from the other".

Moonstone – Adularia. A pearly, opalescent, bluish stone of the feldspar species. Popular use in jewelry during the 1930s and 40s. In costume jewelry usually used to describe glass with similar characteristics. Usually cut en cabochon. Often confused with "milkstone" which is a pearlized, opalescent white stone used in costume jewelry. Usually cut en cabochon.

Mosaic – A piece of jewelry in which the pattern is formed by the inlaying of various colored stones or glass. Two typed of mosaic work are Roman and Florentine.

Mother-of-pearl – The pearly, iridescent internal layer of the abalone, mollusk, oyster and sea snail.

Mourning jewelry – Jewelry worn "in memory of" by friends and relatives of the deceased. Often sums of money were set aside in one’s will to have pieces made to be distributed to mourners attending the funeral.

Muff chain – A long chain worn around the neck and passed through the muff to keep it secure.

Nacre – A term often used interchangeably with mother-of-pearl. The outer pearlized shell of an imitation or simulated pearl.

Necklace lengths – Choker – 15 " long

Princess – 18 " long

Matinee – 22 " long

Opera – 30 " long

Rope – 60 " long

Nickel silver – A combination of copper, nickel, zinc and sometimes small amounts of tin, lead or other metals.

Niello – A decorative technique in which the metal is scooped our (in the same manner as champlive) and the recessed area is filled with a mixture of metallic blue-black finish. The technique dates back to the Bronze Age.

Obsidian – A black, glassy volcanic rock. Often used in Mexican sterling jewelry. Often mistakenly identified as onyx.

Old mine cut – An old style of cutting a diamond in which the girdle outline is squarish, the crown is high and the table is small. It has 32 crown facets plus a table, and 24 pavilion facets plus a culet.

Parure – A matching suite of jewelry often consisting of necklace, bracelet, earrings, pin (sometimes two pins) and sometimes a ring. A demi-parure is a partial matching set consisting of a pin and earrings, necklace and earrings or necklace and bracelet, etc.

Paste jewelry – Jewelry that is set with glass imitation gems. Very popular in the 18^th century, it provides us with many good examples of the jewelry from that time period.

Pate de Verre – An ancient process in which glass is ground to powder, colored, placed in a mold and fired. It was revived in the 19^th century and used to make many pieces of Art Nouveau jewelry.

Patina – Green rust that occurs on jewelry and other metal objects that have a high bronze or copper content.

Pat. Pend. – Patent pending.

Pave – Tiny rhinestones that are placed close to each other giving the jewelry the effect of being paved with rhinestone. Most of the time in costume jewelry these pave rhinestones are glued in. However, some of the finer fashion jewelry has these stones prong set.

Pebble jewelry – Scottish jewelry (usually silver) set with stones native to Scotland. Very popular during the Victorian era.

Pendeloque – A faceted drop shaped stone (similar to a briolette) that has a table.

Pietra Dura – (Hard stone). Flat slices of chalcedony, agate, jasper and lapis lazuli used in Florentine mosaic jewelry.

P"beck – An alloy of copper and zinc invented by Christopher P"beck in the 1720s that looked like gold. It was used for making jewelry, watches and accessories. This term is very misused today. Some dealers refer to any piece that is not gold as "p"beck".

Pique – A technique of decoration tortoise shell by inlaying it with pieces of gold and silver. Popular from the mid 17^th century until Edwardian time.

Platinum – A rare heavy, silvery white metallic element that is alloyed with other metals and used to make fine pieces of jewelry.

Plique-a-Jour – An enameling technique that produces a "stained glass effect" because the enamel is held in a metal frame without any backing. An ancient technique, it was revived and used extensively by Art Nouveau designers.

Poincon – A French term for the mark on French silver similar to the English Hallmark.

Posy ring – A finger ring with an engraved motto (often rhymed) on the inner side.

Prong set – Metal flanges (or prongs) are used to hold a stone securely in place. Later replaced in mass production of costume jewelry by cheaper, faster gluing in of stones. Also called claw-set when longer metal flanges are used.

Prystal – A plastic substitute created to imitate glass. Often used in beads.

Regard ring – A finger ring set with 6 stones of which the first letter in each spell REGARD. The stones most commonly used were: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby and Diamond.

Repousse – A metal design formed in relief. These patterns and designs are produced by punches or chasing hammers.

Retro – Backward, behind, and prior. In costume jewelry refers to designs that have been done in the past and used again later.

Rhinestone – A cut stone of glass with high light refraction and iridescence. Often backed with foil. Comes in clear to endless color variety. The term "rhinestone" comes from the area near the Rhine river in Austria where these glass stones were originally produced. Also called diamante, strass and paste.

Rhodium – A whitish-gray silvery metal in the platinum family. Used for electroplating in costume jewelry due to its hardness and resistance to corrosion. Often mistaken for sterling silver and chromium.

Riviere – A style of necklace containing individually set stones of the same size or graduating in size that are set in a row without any other ornamentation.

Rolled gold – A plating of gold that is laminated or rolled onto a base metal surface.

Roundel – Small, round metal spacers used mostly in necklaces – strung between beads or faux pearls. When these spacers are made of glass they are often referred to as roundelas.

Rose cut – A cutting style in which there are 24 triangular facets meeting at the top with a point. The base is always flat. Diamonds cut this way are usually cut from macles.

Rose montee – A flat back rhinestone that is usually foil backed.

Ruolz – A gilded or silvered metal named after the inventor of the process who was a French chemist.

Sautoir – An open-ended long necklace of chains, pearls, beads or cording ending in tassels, drops or other decoration. A popular necklace style during the Deco era.

Scarf pin – A straight pin approximately 2 ½ " long with a decorative head. It was used between 1880-1915 to hold the ties in place. It is the same as a tiepin.

Scatter pins – Small conversation pins worn in groups. Scatter pins were popular in the 1950s.

Seed pearl – A small pearl weighing less than ¼ grain.

Shank – The circle of metal that attaches to the head of a ring and encircles the finger.

Signed – When the manufacturers or designer’s identifying mark or signature is etched, carved or stamped into the jewelry (usually located on the back of the jewelry).

Sometimes this identifying mark or signature is accompanied by a date of manufacture, however this practice is rare. However, Hollycraft is known for dating a large portion of their jewelry. Signed is a term not to be confused with hallmark.

Signet bangle – A hinged tubular bracelet with a central plaque for engraving. Very popular in the 1890-1910 time period.

Signet ring – A ring with a central plaque on which ones initials were engraved. Sometimes a seal or crest was used.

Simulated – To imitate or counterfeit something genuine. See faux.

Soldering – The fusing of metals by solder. Solder is a fusible alloy with a lower melting point than most metals. Applied in the melted state – securely joins other metals together when cooled.

Star setting – A popular setting in the 1890s in which the stone is placed in an engraved star and secured by a small grain of metal at the base of each point.

Stomacher – A large triangular piece of jewelry worn on the bodice and extending below the waistline. An 18^th century style that was revived during the Edwardian period.

Sweater guards – Two decorative devices that resemble pins, but are held securely to the garment via alligator clips. Chains, pearls or beads are suspended between the clasps. Used to secure a sweater about the neck when the sweater is not being worn. Popular in the 1950s. Often mistakenly called chatelaines or sweater pins.

Swivel – A fitting used to attach a watch to a chain. It has an elongated spring opening for attaching the watch. The swivel allows the watch to hang properly.

Synthetic – A man-made material with the same physical, chemical and optical properties as the natural. Not to be confused with imitation.

Tahitian pearls – In costume jewelry, this term is used to describe simulated pearls in a dark gray to almost black or light gray color. Also called Polynesian pearls.

Taille d Epergne – An enamelling technique in which engraved depressions are filled with opaque enamel.

Tiffany setting – A round six prong mounting with a flare from the base to the top.

Trademark – The mark registered with the U>S> Patent Office that identifies a wholesales or retailer.

Tremblant – A pin, brooch, clip and sometimes necklaces that have a moveable part set on a tiny spring causing it to tremble when the wearer moves. Also called a nodder.

Torsade – A necklace with several strands of different beads, pearls and/or chains twisted together. (example: remember the "twist-a-beads" from the 1980s?)

Tortoise shell – A mottled brown to brownish gold horn-like substance derived from the marine turtle. Now illegal to harvest and sell the genuine tortoise shell. Often the term "tortoise shell" is used to describe the translucent mottled brownish-gold plastic used in combs, hair accessories and jewelry.

Trifanium – A special metal alloy patented by Trifari.

Vermeil – Gilded silver. Sterling silver with a gold plating.

Unsigned or unmarked – Manufacturer’s or designer’s identifying mark or signature is not etched, carved or stamped into the item.

Wax pearls – An imitation pearl created by filling clear, hollow glass beads with wax.

White gold – An alloy of gold, nickel and zinc developed in 1912 to imitate the popular platinum.

White metal – A base metal of tin, antimony and copper used in the manufacture of costume jewelry. It is usually electroplated.

Source: Collectible Costume Jewelry, by Cherri Simonds, published by Collector Books

Old Jewelry, by C. Jeanenne Bell, 4^th Edition, published by Books Americana

Purchase items at:  www.treasures-in-time.com

Search this site: SEARCH

Carol Bell Copyright © 2004 [www.treasures-in-time.com]. All rights reserved.
Revised: 09/22/06.